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Newsletter #37 - February 26 to March 4, 1960 |
| NewsLetter #37 Feb. 26-March 4, 1960 England - Hello: Here we are again after a very busy Saturday [February 27] in London and also a most interesting day. (Believe it or not, sunshine for a change!) We started the day by taking a bus to Charing Cross and then walking to lovely Trafalgar Square, where we saw the National Gallery and the 184 ft. high fluted Corinthian Column surmounted by a 16 foot statue of Lord Nelson, who was Vice Admiral at the victory of the Battle of Trafalgar, Here we also saw two very beautiful fountains and many Londoners busily meandering about. Our next lovely view was of the Admiralty Arch, the majestic gateway to the Mall and the Admiralty, the headquarters of the Royal Navy. We next saw the Royal Pageantry of the Horse Guards in Whitehall and the Changing of the Queen's Life Guard of Household Cavalry which takes place every day at 11:00 A.M. This certainly was a lovely and colorful spectacle with its well-trained horses and ornately dressed guards. Our next sight was Marlborough House, the work of Sir Christopher Wren, which was the home of Queen Alexandra and Queen Mary after the death of their husbands. Further down the Mali toward Buckingham Palace we saw the 124 ft. high Duke of York's Column, about whom was written the popular song, "The Grand Old Duke of York." Next came St. James Palace and then Clarence House, which is the London residence of the Queen Mother and H.R.H. The Princess Margaret, whose picture is all over every newspaper in England today, since the surprise announcement of her engagement last night. We next saw The Queen Victoria Memorial which is very beautiful and has a 13 ft. high figure of the great Queen, carved from one huge block of marble; it faces the Mall and is in front of Buckingham Palace, the London home of the Sovereign (when the Queen is in residence the Royal Standard flutters over the palace as it did today since the Queen is still at Buckingham Palace — her new son was only one week old yesterday). We next strolled along Birdcage Walk, past Wellington Barracks and saw St. James Park with hundreds of baby carriages and mothers with their young children enjoying the sunshine and the feel of spring which was in the air. Our next big thrill was seeing and later hearing "Big Ben" in the Clock Tower of The Houses of Parliament, also known as the King's Palace at Westminster. This is a magnificent building along the Thames and we were lucky to see the entire building as Saturday is the only day it is open to the public. We had an excellent guide who told us so much about the many rooms we visited, such as the Queen's Robe Room, The House of Lords, The House of Commons, the Aye and Nay Rooms, the Royal Gallery, the St. Stephen's Chapel and crypt, etc. We next walked across Westminster Bridge to get a better view of this wonderful edifice and of Victoria Embankment and of Cleopatra's Needle, an obelisk which really has no connection with Cleopatra but was a gift presented to the British Nation by the ruler of Egypt, Mohammed All, in 1820. We next walked to Piccadilly Circus, the Times Square of London, and purchased theatre tickets for the play "The Night Life of a Virile Potato" (some title!), which had for its star Sarah Churchill and was a light entertaining comedy which we thoroughly enjoyed. We later had dinner at "Friar Tuck's", also in the Piccadilly Circus area. We went back to our hotel on Russell Square by Tube and had no difficulty finding our way |
| NewsLetter #37 about London this entire day. [February 28] Today, Sunday, in London was certainly wonderful as we used the car and saw so much more of London, as the streets were not crowded and traffic was not too bad. We again went to Trafalgar Square and today saw St. Martin-in-the-Fields, a very famous church where Chippendale and Nell Gwynn are buried, also Canada House and South Africa House. Nearby at Charing Cross Station we saw The Queen Eleanor Memorial and Charles I's Statue and again viewed the Horse Guards Parade at Whitehall Palace, where centuries ago men in armor took part in jousting tournaments. (This palace was famous during the Tudor and Stuart periods) Along Whitehall Street there are The War Office, The Banqueting Hall, The Cenotaph (a statue which commemorates the fallen of the two world wars) and nearby is a short street known to us all, Downing Street, where at Number 10 is the official residence of Britain's Prime Minister. Number 11 is the official residence of the Chancellor of the Exchequer (These are the only two residences on this street and they were being guarded by London Bobbles when we were there). We were told to go to Petticoat Lane today, which is similar to South Street in South Philadelphia. In Petticoat Lane all the wares are sold out in the open, although other stores in this area are also open for business; it was very interesting and worth our time. Another place to go on Sundays is Marble Arch, which is at the Hyde Park end of Piccadilly Street, where they have "Orators Corner", a popular spot for public meetings and gatherings. While we were there today there was a terrific crowd and we saw several soap box orators. We also watched a parade which had many people carrying placards about the boycott of South African goods. We later drove along Hyde Park area where we saw another Sunday event, which was the outdoor Art Exhibit. This was quite colorful and interesting, from here we went to view The Albert Memorial on the fringe of Kensington Gardens, and also The Royal Albert Hall. We next saw Kensington Palace, which now houses The London Museum and has a very large and unusual wooded area known as Kensington Gardens, where we saw some fine statues, one being "Peter Pan", Sir James Barriers immortal character. Here we also saw "Round Pond", a favorite place for children, as they may sail their model ships upon this pond. Today was a good day for just this sort of fun and the park was crowded with children of all ages. On our trip back toward centeral London we drove along the Ring Road in Hyde Park, which covers an area of 360 acres and has a large lake for boating and swimming and is called "The Serpentine", and also has "Rotten Row", which is a lovely tree lined track used for horseback riding. This park was also quite crowded with hikers and Londoners out exercising their dogs, as today was just like spring instead of a February day. Tonight we had dinner at "The Chicken Inn" near Piccadilly Circus and then took in a movie titled "A Woman Like Satan", starring Brigitte Bardot, who was disgusting, sexy and to my way of thinking much too vulgar and revealing. (Censors here in England must be very lax.) Before returning to our hotel we drove down to see Westminster Abby, Parliament Square and The Thames at night with all the many lights. Meredith took a time picture of The Country Hall which faces The Thames and looked beautiful with its spotlights giving it a fairylike look. On our way home - 2 -
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| Newsletter #37 tonight we missed our turn and drove several miles out of our way, as things surely look entirely different at night. We're mighty tired tonight but we surely have seen a lot of London. Monday [February 29] evening and the end of another big day here in London. We started the day by visiting Westminster Abby, the scene of coronations and royal weddings; until 1760 England's kings were buried here. While here we saw the grave of the Unknown Warrior and the places where many notable are buried within this marvelous Gothic Cathedral. Its interior is now being cleaned. Alongside this abby is St. Margaret's, the Parish Church of the Houses of Parliament and a favorite church for society weddings. (This church is quite small and very old) Our next places of interest were London Bridge, the unusual Tower Bridge and Waterloo Bridge, all of which span the Thames. We crossed the London Bridge and Tower Bridge but only viewed Waterloo. We also drove along Victoria Embankment and saw these ships moored there: The Discovery, Captain Scott's famous research ship. The Wellington, a World War II anti-submarine frigate; H.M.S. Chrysanthemum and H.M.S. President, both Royal Naval Reserve Training vessels. We next went to the Tower of London, which has been Her Majesty's Royal Palace and Fortress since the 11th Century and has played an important part in England's history. (It has served as fortress, palace and prison.) Sovereigns who used this Tower as a Royal Palace included Henry VII, Henry VIII and Charles II. Some of the famous prisoners kept here were Lady Jane Grey, Sir Walter Raleigh, Guy Pawkes, and Queen Anne Boleyn and Katherine Howard. Today in the Wakefield Tower we saw the famous collection of jeweled objects and royal emblems known as The Crown Jewels, which are housed in this famous place. The custodians of the Tower are the Yeomen warders who wear unusual State uniforms which date from Tudor times. We saw the four "Star of Africa" diamonds, one weighing 530 carats, which is in the Sovereign Sceptre, while the other three are in the State Crown and the Crown of the Late Queen Mary. At this Tower of London we also saw a collection of arms and armor and the fiendish instruments of torture once used. We next drove to St. Paul's Cathedral with its great Renaissance dome dominating the London skyline and were impressed by this massive structure built by the famous Sir Christopher Wren. This cathedral stands on the summit of Ludgate Hill and within its impressive interior we saw memorials and tombs of some of England's famous men and the new U. S. Memorial Chapel, which is Britain's tribute to the 28,000 American servicemen and women who lost their lives in the last war. (Very beautiful and impressive) Nearby we saw the financial heart of England, which extends from the Tower to St. Paul's Cathedral and Includes such famous buildings as The Royal Exchange, The Bank of England and the Mansion House, which is the official residence of the Lord Mayor during his year of office, and The Criminal Court known as "Old Bailey", which is surmounted by a lovely figure of Justice and is on the site of the old Newgate Prison. [March 1] The American Embassy where we picked up our mail was also in a lovely area called Grosvenor Square, which has the Roosevelt Memorial in its beautiful park area, and is near Park Lane where once only London's wealthiest people lived, but which now has most of its mansions converted into exclusive hotels and offices. - 3 -
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| Newsletter #37 Our last place of interest for today was the London Planetarium and the renowned Madame Tussauds, where the wax figures of the famous (and infamous) are on view. We spent at least an hour and a half at this Wax Museum and really did enjoy it. There were at least 350 figures of such people as the Royal Group, Famous Warriors, Historic Ministers, the Ecclesiastical Group, American Presidents and Statesmen, Modern Rulers, Chiefs of Armed Services, Stage and Screen Stars, Sports Heroes, the Hall of Kings, interesting tableaux and the Chamber of Horrors. Most of these figures were so real you felt you had to talk to them. Today [March 2] we left London after a last look at the London University near our hotel and another ride over the Tower Bridge. We were soon out on open road and enjoying the English countryside. We saw Greenwich Naval College, a lovely group of buildings along the Thames and then saw a very elegant Castle in Rochester, which was built by the Normans and had some very high towers, or keeps, as the British call them. Our next city of Interest was Canterbury, the center of pilgrimages during the Middle Ages, where we saw the Canterbury Cathedral, one of the greatest historical and architectural structures and treasures of England. This city lies on the Stour River and is remembered as the destination of the pilgrims in Chancer's "Canterbury Tales." We did not get to see the Archbishop of Canterbury, but our guide was most interesting and spoke of the Archbishop with such a great reverence. At a quaint little hamlet, with darling Tudor style cottages, called Chilham, we saw another very ancient and beautiful castle (which was closed until summer). Tonight [March 2] we are staying at White Cliffs Hotel at Dover and we have seen the white cliffs which rise on either side of the bay. Before coming to the hotel we drove up a very high hill to a town called Deal, which reminded us of Deal near Asbury Park, New Jersey, with its lovely large homes and ocean hotels. Here we again saw the remains of a castle and nearby at Walmer we saw a castle which was in a very fine condition and seemed to be more like a fortress than a home. Of all the castles we saw today Dover Castle was the most beautiful, which gives a splendid view of the English Channel as it is 400 feet above sea level and has many high Norman towers. We have leisurely driven along the English Channel today and visited such towns as Folkestone, a popular summer resort; Hythe, another resort with a picturesque setting at the foot of cliffs which has a lovely church that uniquely stands on the hill above the town; Hastings, another attractive resort town with a 3-mile long seafront and lengthy promenades, piers and interesting shops with city crowned by the ruins of another old Norman Castle. We also drove through Rye, a quiet little town with cobbled streets, ancient houses and Ypres Tower, which has walls four feet thick. Our next interesting town was Lewes, which is situated among the Downs and has several interesting old buildings and churches dating back to Saxon times, as the Anne of Cleaves House of 1559, and the Barbican House. Next came Brighton, a seaside resort developed from a small fishing village which is located at the foot of the Sussex Downs and then Worthing, a residential seaside resort with the South Downs in the background and a high spot where you get a magnificent view of - 4 -
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| Newsletter #37 Beachy Head and the Isle of Wight. The most delightful town today was Arundel with its red brick buildings and Arundel Castle, seat of the Duke of Norfolk, which gives this small town a commanding appearance the way the castle overlooks the nestled village. The next town we saw was Chichester with a large Norman Cathedral, interesting statues and sculptures and an area called Market Cross at the Junction of the towns four main roads where a lovely ornate Gothic style pavilion like structure dominated the scene. Our next two cities were Portsmouth and Southampton, large seaport cities with extensive docks which have been largely rebuilt since the air raids of World War II. Tonight [March 3] we are sleeping at Winchester, which has beautiful Winchester College, famous St. Cross Hospital where pilgrims on their pilgrimage to Canterbury often stopped, Winchester Castle which preserves the 13th Century Great Hell with the famous Round Table of King Arthur and the Winchester Cathedral, next to St. Peters in Rome in length, and ranks next to Westminster Abbey as the shrine of many kings and princes as Winchester was the former capital of England, until William the Conqueror moved his court to London. Friday [March 4] , the last day of another newsletter week found us in such places as Salisbury, a charming town surrounded by hills with a Cathedral which is considered a masterpiece of early Gothic with the highest spire in England and then Dorchester, an ancient Roman town encircled by trees that mark the line of the original Roman ramparts. This is the famous Thomas Hardy Country and we saw the statue of this author outside the city limits several miles. Today we also visited Weymouth, the port from which Meredith left on D-Day, June 6, 1944. We are in the area at present where he spent approximately 10 months along the coast with his Amphibious Company prior to landing at Omaha Beach. Tonight we are in Exeter, a country town of Devon, which is situated on a lovely hillside. This city is said to have withstood more sieges than any other town in England, but it still seems to have an ancient look. I am sorry to have to bore you with so many details of each day, but this is the only record I am keeping of our adventure and since we see so much in a day, we would like to be able to remember as many of these places as possible and sometimes by saying one small fact about a town may help one of us recall the place even years from now. So far we have enjoyed England a great deal, but we have really only seen a small area of this country so far. The English people, although reserved, are quite friendly, unfailingly courteous and the closest thing to Americans we have bumped into this entire year, except in Australia. The complaints we have of this country are the lack of heat and comfort in their homes and hotels and their poor ways of preparing food. (They use too much fat, too many potatoes and have very poor seasoning sense.) This is, of course, only our opinion. England is also a very expensive country for tourists, as hotels are quite high and you must take breakfast, which costs $1.25 to $1.50 per person. (In fact, breakfasts in all of Europe are quite expensive when you consider the small amount of food you are served.) That's it for this week, we are still feeling fine but more than a wee bit chilly. Fondest regards to all, Meredith and Charlotte - 5 -
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