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Newsletter #5 - July 18-24, 1959 |
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Newsletter #5
Mailed Hong Kong 7/31/59 Rec'd. Phila.,Pa. 8/4/59 Mushi, Mushi (Hello, hello) Used on telephones only in Japan): Here we are again starting our third week in Japan and seeing many more new and interesting places each day [July 18]. We decided against going to Osaka and Kobe and are visiting shops where Japanese products are manufactured in their stead. Our first visit is to see Damasene and Smoked Silver and Jewelry made at the Amita Corp, which exports much of its wares. The designs are hand carved by skilled engravers in chemically blackened surfaces of sterling silver pieces. The handicraft Amita Damasene process consists of numerous tine lines chiseled in steel foundations with delicate instruments, after which the design is inlaid with 24K gold and sterling silver, and the surface is then corroded with nitric acid. To stop the rusting the pieces made are boiled in green tea and several layers of lacquer are then baked on the entire surface, after which the design is polished out again with charcoal and it is then given its final engraving and finishing. We purchased several Amita pieces of Damasene, which you will soon see. From here we went to see the Inaba Cloisonne Company (best and most famous). The process of making Cloisonne ware is first a foundation of copper, silver or gold on which designs are drawn and they then affix wires on the design which are stuck by glue temporarily. A solder enamel is dropped and it then has its first baking and then a first coating of enamel. Next a second baking and a second coating of enamel and a third baking and coating of enamels and a fourth baking and by this time the enamels are thick enough to cover all the wires which make up the design. It is then polished by 9 different whetstones until it gives luster to the enamels. All finishing and trimming is then done with silver and gold or only the one metal. Originally this costly ware was done by inlaying seven different precious treasures, such as sapphires, emeralds, corals, jades, crystals, pearls, etc. These were mounted in silver or gold. In the created process we saw, and which is now used, enamels take the place of precious stones. Again we purchased a few pieces of this ware, which are more costly than Damasene, but less attractive, to my eye. Guess I could write forever about the patience all these workers must possess, but needless to say both of these handicrafts take many skilled craftsmen. Would like to expound on the story of ivory, but I'll only give briefly what I've heard and seen. Of course, the ivory comes from the tusks of elephants and an elephant's only value after death is its two tusks. There are two kinds of ivory, hard and soft; and the soft variety is best as it withstands differences of climate and temperature better and does not crack so easily as the hard variety. The hard is found on Africa's west coast and the soft on the east coast. - 1 -
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Newsletter #5
All ivory must be hand carved. In Japan most of the ivory wares are made by carvers at their individual homes, and each piece entails very long hours. It is not the size of an ivory piece which makes it expensive# but rather the carving and depth of the carved piece. The carved ivory from Hong Kong is said to be cheaper, but not as superior as Japanese work. We were next fortunate to see Silk being washed it the same place we saw it in the movie "Sayonara", it was much more of a thrill than where we saw it yesterday as we could talk to the workers. Since it was about time for our train to leave the Tokyo, we hurried back to our Japanese Style Seikoro Hotel and were given royal farewells by all and got a customary memento which you will eventually see and enjoy. We met two charming girls from Canada at Kyoto Station and had fun exchanging our unusual Japanese experiences, likes and dislikes. As usual, we had a very comfortable modern train, towels to wash and freshen up (steaming hot) and a good snack in the dining car. During our eight hours back to Tokyo we surely enjoyed the terraced tea plantation scenes, the rice paddles, vegetable gardens, lovely lotus ponds with their pink and white blossoms, many mountains in the distance mulberry trees for the silkworms, the snow-white cranes and the quaint outfits worn by the farmers in their gardens. During the afternoon the steward came to take dinner orders and we were given a table for six o'clock. The Japanese surely do things the correct way, for at approximately five minutes before six o’clock a Japanese waitress came to tell us our table was ready. A mother and her ten-year-old son were also seated at our table and they told us of their many experiences in the Philippines where they have been stationed for the past two years. Stan and Roberta Hoschouer met us at the Imperial Hotel Lobby and we then went to a very nice party where we met many of their friends. On Sunday [July 19] morning we attended Yokota Air Base Chapel, where we enjoyed a most uplifting service and sermon, and we were pleased to see the chapel actually overflowing, especially on such a hot morning. After church we drove to Kamakura as guests or my sorority sister and her husband to see the dignified holy Buddha image which has been exposed in sunshine, in storm and in snowy weather for 700 years. Hundreds of Japanese people, as well as tourists, were visiting this colossal statue or "Daibutsu", which was once enclosed in a spacious temple which was destroyed by a tidal wave during 1495 and since then it has been standing proudly in the open air. Its weight is 210,000 pounds in bronze and it is being repaired at present. There are Steps inside the Buddha where you can get a view of the gardens in this temple area. It attracts pilgrims throughout the year, I was told, and it is photographed by everyone. We also enjoyed seeing the pine tree-fringed beaches, as this is noted as one of the best seaside resorts near Tokyo. We also visited Yokohama today on our trip home. On Monday [July 20] we went to many china shops and got lots more patterns to confuse us even more than we already were. We also visited our first PX, but we could not buy anything. - 2 -
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Newsletter #5
I had myself made into a new woman on Monday I also I by going to a Japanese Beauty Shoppe and tor a change I got the works, which included a wonderful head and shoulder massage, shampoo and hot oil treatment, oil manicure and hair set. I think they did an A-1 Job and I feel much improved and think I’d like to get this type of care at home; but I know at least five girls helped to do this Job. The next appointment is on Friday, as I do want to make a good impression at the Cocktail Party being given in our honor. Tuesday [July 21] we shopped quite extensively and also saw our first movie since we've been touring. It was most entertaining. Visited several air and naval bases, which were most interesting, also toured a school on Yokoto Base and could have a teaching job in almost any grade I'd desire. (Surely could get work teaching in most any city in Japan!) Wednesday [July 22], Bobbie and I went to the American Embassy for our mail, as Meredith felt a little under the weather with G.I.trouble. We received twelve letters and I want all our friends and relatives to know we really were glad to hear from them and hope they keep us informed all the way. We would love to answer each one individually but it is really impossible and hope our newsletters will suffice. On Thursday [July 23] very early -- 6:05 AM to be exact -- we were at Tachikawa Station on our way to Atami and the Fuji Hakone National Park. Atami is known as the Japanese Riviera and it was very picturesque, but we had a cloudy day and poor weather for color photos. The hotels are beautiful and very elaborate and they are in abundance and quite expensive at this place. After lunch we took a bus to tour the famous Fuji Hakone, Izu National Park, which is a marvel of nature as you climb, climb, climb to the top of mountains and look down upon the quaint villages and snakelike road you have just driven upon. It surely reminds us of Alaska except that it is even more green and there is no dust as we have had some rain almost every day in Japan. We took a lovely boat trip on Lake Hakone, which is an extinct crater of one of the Hakone mountains. The trip is wonderful, except that Mt. Fuji, which on clear, sunny days reflects on these placid waters, is hidden by clouds. I suppose everyone knows Mt. Fuji is known the world over as the symbolic figure of Japan and we hated to miss its reflection in the waters, but many thousands of Japanese tourists were just as disappointed as we were. This National Park attracts the natives and it is said to be Japan's number one vacationland with all its beautiful mountains, lakes, shrines fishing and boating facilities. This bus trip, I am sure, will be an unforgettable experience to both Meredith and me, as the roads were unusually rough, narrow end dangerous with hairpin curves and deep ditches on either side of the road. After this exciting and unusual bus trip we rode on a cable car to Gora Spa and then an electric train to Odawara, where we eventually took a late train back to Tokyo. After another tasty meal at Dai Ichi Hotel we returned to the home or our newly acquired friends Bobbie and Stan Hoschouer. We related a bit of our trip to them and then hit the sack as we were really dog tired. - 3 -
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Newsletter #5
Today being Friday [July 24] and the day before leaving Japan, we must begin packing and get all our Japanese shopping finished. After lunch we order our china and Shop until 2:30, when I have my hair done once more and again enjoy the wonderful Japanese friendliness. By the time this is completed and we have a light snack, it is time for the 6 to 7 cocktail guests to arrive. Ako and Hotswa, Bobbie's two Japanese helpers, have everything ready. We met many lovely and friendly couples this evening, as Bobble had three sets of friends invited -- 6 to 7 PM, 7 to 8 PM and 8 to 9 PM, so that we could really learn to know them. Everyone was charming and friendly and a most pleasant evening was had by everyone. Later we went to an Italian Restaurant and had dinner, discussed our lovely evening, and as soon as we got to bed we drifted into a deep sleep. We sure hate to leave Japan and its wonderful hospitality but tonight we take a J.A.L. airliner at approximately midnight for the noted Hong Kong, a shoppers' paradise. As usual on our trip into Tokyo we again noted the feverish activity, which is evident on every hand tor hotel construction which is being pushed to prepare tor the Olympic Games to be held there in 1964. The hotel which we used as our headquarters while in Tokyo has started work on an 11-floor annex, which will have 650 rooms. Together with its present 626 rooms, it will be the largest in Japan when the annex is completed and we would recommend it to anyone planning a trip to Tokyo as accommodations and meals are really excellent and their prices are moderate and service is A-l and served in the finest china and with real finesse. Roberta and Stan drove us to the airport to check our luggage and we have our lunch at the Airport Restaurant. We then go back into Tokyo and roam about on the Ginza and at five o'clock we go to the famous Kabuki Theatre, where we see a theatre act very popular with the Japanese natives. The distinctive characteristics of the Kabuki drama lie in the combination of rhythmical words, unique dances, stirring samisen music, gorgeous costumes, colorful unusual makeup and moat elaborate settings. What is even more unusual is that female roles in the Kabuki are always played by male actors. Unfortunately we saw a Kabuki play which is a little different than the regular: Kabuki drama, and even though we could not understand a word we got the idea by the actions changes of scenery, makeup, etc. These shows are never given later than 5 PM, but I could not learn the reason for this custom. After the Kabuki we met our friends and had a delicious dinner and a lovely drive through the colorfully lantern-lit streets of Tokyo and out to the airport where we weighed in, got our seat assignments and waited flight time. We will tell about our flight in our next newsletter. Needless to say, we will always remember our three weeks in Japan as we always were treated like royalty from the time we entered customs until we left. Both of us are still in fine heath and we hope the same is true of allot you at home. Sayonara, and our love,
Charlotte and Merdedith Mailed: International Hotel Hong Kong - 4 -
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