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Newsletter #3 - July 3-10, 1959 |
| Newsletter #3 Mailed Tokyo 7-14-59 Recd. Phila.,Pa. 7-19-59 Week July 3-10, 1959 JAPAN Hi, Everybody: Today [July 4] was our last day in Hawaii and we enjoyed it just as much as the past two weeks, but it was spent in a hectic way. Naturally we packed, which took almost all A.M., as we had packages to send off to the mainland and tried to keep our baggage down to 88 lbs., which is more than a big task. Guess I’ve already told you we sent between 55 and 60 lbs. of excess baggage to Paris, which gave us many decisions to make as we couldn't decide what we could do without until December. Strolled down to the Royal Hawaiian to watch the bathers, where luckily we saw Senator John Kennedy, who arrived the night before for some special events. He willingly gave his permission for Meredith to photograph him after he wiped his face dry with a towel. Several hours later we saw Loretta Young again, but she refused us when we asked to photograph her. After buying several leis to take to Tokyo for Stan and Roberta Hoschauer and having dinner before going to the airport, in time for weighing in and being assigned our seats, we found out our plane was delayed at least two hours. [July 5] We took off smoothly after waiting quite a long time at the airport and watched the lights of Honolulu and Waikiki Beach from the air fade quickly out of sight, and then we had just ocean for about 7-1/2 hours, of which we slept until asked to fasten our seat belts to land at Wake Island in the pitch dark for light refreshments and refueling. In another hour we were off again for 7-1/2 more hours to Tokyo. After two hours out from Wake Island we were informed we would have to return because of a gasoline leakage. We returned and had breakfast and time to write cards and look at this small island as it was now about 5 A.M. and daylight. Wake Island lies 2,296 miles due west of Honolulu and covers only two square desolate miles. The lagoon is lovely and is said to shelter a most remarkable collection of small tropical fish which you all know I am interested in. The population on Wake averages about l,000, largely the representatives of airlines, civil aeronautics and the U.S. Weather Bureau. On December 23, 1941 this island garrison surrendered after a predawn Japanese task force landed and fought for twelve continuous hours. The U.S.Marines took it back again on September 4, 1945. [July 6] Our second takeoff from Wake Island is lovely and we have a smooth 7-1/2 hours and a good dinner before arriving at Tokyo International Airport at Haneda. We wave to all the people as we arrive, never thinking Roberta and Stan are still waiting for us, as our plane is 7-3/4 hours late. We were to arrive at 7:20 and got here at 2:50 P.M., and we surely are tired -- but happy. Wasted another 1-1/2 hours going through customs and getting Meredith's excess films correctly bonded. Roberta, a sorority sister whom I've never met personally and only know through recent correspondence, is simply charming and her husband Stan is equally as nice. We have a cool drink at the airport and they then drive us to our hotel — the Dai-Ichi, - 1 -
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Newsletter #3
which means "The First" in Japanese. We register and freshen up a bit, have dinner at a famous German restaurant off the Ginza called "Ketels" and get better acquainted with the Hoschouers. He is with the U.S.Array Air Force and she is teaching commercial subjects on the post. From dinner we go to a wonderful stage show called "Pink Blossoms." We then walk along the Ginza quite awhile and later go to a famous tea house and have light refreshments. The tea house is unusually ornate and has a wonderful orchestra and grand service. The beginning of our stay has been busy as we have checked our sailing date for Australia, gone to the Embassy for mail, checked with J.T.B. (Japanese Travel Bureau) on tours and trying to get a freighter back to Thailand by visiting several travel agencies and steamship lines. Tuesday [July 7] we took a Down Town Tour and saw Tokyo Station, Imperial Palace Grounds, Kanda Section and walked a good distance at Korakuen Gardens and then stopped to watch Judo for about one-half hour at Kodokan Judo Hall. This was most interesting as boys of all ages were training. We saw Tokyo University, Ueno Park, Ryogoku Bridge and ended this tour at a very large modern department store called Mitsukoshifs. Here we saw a Japanese Bride Garment Show and were served delicious green tea and cookies. At night we walked and saw even more of the famous Ginza. On Wednesday [July 8] we took a Morning Uptown Tour of Tokyo City and went to the very newest Tokyo T.V.Tower. It is the highest tower in the world and we took an elevator to the observation tower and got a panoramic view of the entire city of Tokyo. Unfortunately we had nothing but smog, so you could not see distant Mt. Fuji or the North and South Japanese Alps range. This, by the way, is now the major tourist attraction in Tokyo and is worth boasting about. In this building you find exhibits on electronics of all types and shops of all kinds and a Modern Science Museum. We then went to the Diet Building, which was 18 years in its constructing, and completed in 1936. It is comparable to our U.S.Capitol Building in Washington and is used while the Diet is in session. The south half of this large building is used by the House of Representatives and the north half by the House of Councilors. It is a lovely structure. Next we went to Meiji Park, Aoyama Cemetery, which was quite unusual and crowded, and the Happoen Garden where we saw a traditional tea ceremony, which was most impressive. We were served both types of tea and dainty cookies and tidbits. The gardens were lovely and we next stopped at a lovely Silk Gallery where we saw an exhibition of the finest traditional and modern Japanese Silk displayed in a lovely manner in the house occupied by the late Empress Dowager Teimei. We next stopped at the one entrance to the Imperial Palace which covers an area of 250 acres. It is in the heart of Tokyo and is surrounded by a series of moats. It is closed to the public except on New Year's Day and the Emperor's Birthday (April 29), when the public may enter the Palace by way of lovely Nijubashi Bridge and write their names in the visitors' book to express their greetings to the Emperor. The aged pine trees with their branches hanging over the moat along the stone banks and the beautiful lawn are really something to view. On our own we went to Hibiya Park, which is 4l acres in area, and is part Japanese style and part Western style and has a pond, flower beds and low hills which are arranged most attractively. We imagine this - 2 -
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Newsletter #3
would be spectacular during cherry blossom time and when iris, etc. are in bloom. Here grand chrysanthemum shows are held annually in November and we were fortunate to see a lovely show of dahlias which were almost giant in size and had such variety in color. On Wednesday evening we went to a world-famous grand revue called "Natsu No Odori" or as we would say, "Summer Dance." It is done by producer Nichigeki's Dancing teams and is one of the biggest events of its kind on a Japanese Stage. There are modern acts, gypsy acts, Hawaiian acts, ballet acts, Spanish dancing acts, etc., until fifteen grand and glorious acts are completed. The stage settings are terrific and we can truthfully say we have never seen better shows on Broadway than those we saw on Sunday and Wednesday nights. Thursday [July 9] we took an expensive all-day tour to Nikko, which is situated in the northwestern part of Tochigi Prefecture. The harmony in this city of nature with human art, valleys, waterfalls, lakes and plateaus surrounding the ancient masterpieces of architecture fully justifies its reputation of a place in Japan never to miss. At this Nikko National Park is the home of the famous Toshogu Shrines. The shrine buildings are all lacquered vermillion, studded with precious metals and decorated with exquisite carvings everywhere and gold leafing is used extensively. This shrine is a fine mixture of Buddhist and Shinto architecture, with a five-storied pagoda, a belfry and a drum tower on one hand, and a torii gate and sacred cistern on the other. The Sacred Stable bears the celebrated trinity — three monkeys, which represent the precepts to "Hear No Evil", "Speak No Evil," and "See No Evil". A tradition says that a carving of monkeys on the stable will cure horses of an epidemic. We also raw the small Sleeping Cat on one of the gateways and took off our shoes to go into the fabulous main shrine. This shrine of the Toshogu Shrine consists of the three parts, the chapel, the stone hall and the sanctuary. These were the best maintained shrines we have seen thus far. We next take a bus and then an aerial cable car at a 30° angle up 335 feet to see the famous Kegon Waterfall. From the waterfalls we go to Lake Chuzenji, which is 4,194 feet above sea level and very picturesque and scenic, but we have a poor day for "shutterbug" husband. We return to Lake-Side Hotel for tea and then take the hairpin curves back to Kanaya Hotel, where we had a delicious lunch. We have a short wait at this hotel for our returning bus and train trip. When we start for the gift shop whom do we meet but Mr. and Mrs. Horace Ports and Mr. and Mrs. Ben Seveille from York, Pennsylvania! We exchange travel notes until our bus warns us we should get back for our return trip. The train trip to and from Nikko was just wonderful as we passed miles and miles of rice paddies and men and women at work and the white cranes looking for food in the rice fields; just what I've talked about in my classroom many times, I have now seen and enjoyed. There was also much flax growing in this area. We are quite tired after our return but have a quick shower and dinner and shop on the Ginza again. Our hotel has superb food and the most elaborate service we have ever had, except on a cruise ship. - 3 -
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Newsletter #3
You are served every course. Including a fish course, and it is all done with beautifully polished silver tureens, platters, covered dishes, coffee service, etc. The Japanese girls do a beautiful job of serving, and even seem to have a ceremony with breakfast. You use about 12 pieces of flatware sliver for a dinner — fish knife and fork, butter knife, dinner knife and fork, fork for salad, teaspoon, ice cream spoon, fruit knife and fork and demitasse and soup spoon. We are really being spoiled at this hotel and enjoying the service. Friday [July 10] I visited Nagatomachi Primary School as I discovered school was not yet over here in Japan. I had a difficult time with the principal and assistant principal making them understand I wanted to just quietly sit in a corner of a third or fourth grade classroom and see their procedure of teaching. Anyhow, the three of us first had a cup of tea, then they gave me a complete tour of the building and I was in most of the classrooms which numbered seventeen, and they have twenty-three teachers. Their gymnasium, auditorium, swimming pool, kitchen, nurses' room, etc. were very complete and certainly shocked me. They even bake the bread they use for the children and each classroom had a T.V. set, including kindergarten. The two men and I then had another cup of tea and cookies and the principal got his camera and took two pictures and then sketched me with a crayon. They were most gracious and I surely was glad for the opportunity at the time for school closes next week. This was at least a twenty to twenty-five year old school, not a new, modern one. I took a taxi and thought I'd never get there as I went alone while Meredith went photographing. The principal put me in a taxi to go back to my hotel and then I really had my first negative experience with the Japanese. I had an hour to kill before I was to meet Meredith, so thought I'd shop a bit. A man with what I'd classify as a modern ginricksha hailed me and I got in. He pulled me three or four average blocks and he wanted to charge me 200 yen, which I told him was outrageous as taxis only charge 70-70 or 80 yen for a much longer ride. Of course he knew no English except 200 yen and I didn't want to pay him until he gave me a reasonable price and we chattered until we had a nice gathering of Japanese people and I gave him almost that much and turned and went in a store and he really was mad and I was so nervous I did no shopping. This is the last ride of this kind I'll ever take without an escort. On Friday evening we went to the Kokusai Theatre, which is a most outstanding musical and dancing performance by 300 girls. They take the part of boys when the role necessitates. The settings were most unusual and they had fountains galore during one of the acts. Another MUST if you ever visit Japan. The costs of these performances are cheap in comparison with our Broadway Productions. I hope you can all tell from our newsletters that we are both well and happy and sure thankful for the opportunity to see more of our world. I am learning things each day no book could ever teach me. We will give you more of our experiences in Japan next week, as we will be away from Tokyo for a six-day tour. Sayonara,
The Neimans Dai-ichi Hotel - 4 - Shimbashi, Tokyo, Japan |